What a successful plan B! A good portion of students were skeptical, thinking Taiwan was a significant downgrade from famed Japan. Just more China right? Not in the slightest. Taiwan boasts some of the most dramatic landscapes in the world. On an island nation no bigger than Florida, Taiwan offers everything from pristine coastal paradise, to jagged 13,000 ft. snow capped peaks, and Taipei; One of the four tiger economies of the 21st century. With the increased distance from Shanghai, our stay was reduced to three days, and as our last foreign port, we had no choice but to do it big.

The Explorer ported in Keelung on the Northern tip of the Island. Fresh off the ship, we skipped a train to Toroko Gorge. This was a roommate expedition with Dan, Craig, Will, and I. Buying tickets was a gamble. We had a local map with Mandarin characters, and somehow successfully managed to match the symbol of our destination with a symbol on the departure listings.

After two connections, we arrived at Sencheng station. Staying ahead of the crowd, I pinpointed the only scooter rentals in town. Unlike China, English lettering is like chicken scratch to these people. We passed the motorcycle license requirement with flying colors by flashing our shipboard ID’s. Unethical? Maybe, but I was then prompted to sign my life away on a rental contract that looked like an ancient oriental script. We doubled up on our cycles and hit the open road. Winding through the gorge with the wind whipping through my panda hat was liberating. The mountains lining the road shot strait up disappearing into the clouds

We stopped in at the visitor’s center to get the lay of the land before venturing off on a quick five mile hike along an emerald stream. We overshot the turnaround and ended up climbing 1/2 the way up a never-ending staircase before I called shenanigans and turned the group around for a much-needed polar plunge in the river. Refreshed, exhausted, and hungry, we raced the setting sun to the trailhead, hopped back on our scooters, and took off in search of food and lodging.

We stumbled across a small town a couple miles up; grinded some local cuisine, grabbed beers, and made our way up the road to a secluded hostel. It was the perfect place to unwind in the company of good friends and a deck of cards. The next morning came early, and we took to the streets for a brisk cruise to the peak of the gorge. Around each corner we made a new discovery; from suspension bridges, pagodas, and flower fields, to a Buddhist temple, and an eternal spring. Ironically, this place was a spitting image of the mystic mountainous Hollywood China portrays in Kung Fu movies. Bravo Taiwan. We did a daunting 45-minute Stairmaster hike to some pagodas before making our way to the train station to catch an evening ride to Taipei.

We showed up sight unseen, and after deliberating on what local flavor we wanted for dinner, we settled on Pizza Hut buffet for a little taste of home. In an attempt to live out our unfulfilled anticipation for Japan, we spent the rest of the evening in the Japanese style hot springs of Bitou. Which, by the way, may have been dangerous. The top pool was just short of boiling, so we were reduced to the coolest of the warm, and soaked the night away. On our way out, we ran into Nike, a Taiwanese military captain who took us under his wing for a couple hours to share the culture. He brought us to a lookout above the city and a local market for some late night food and drink. He then checked us in to an exclusive military hostel in the heart of the city. The accommodations were lavish so we capitalized and got some much-needed R&R.

With Hawaii around the corner, the next day was our last in a foreign port. We hopped on the subway to see Taipei 101; The second tallest building in the world. After several failed attempts to hike the fire stairs, we refused to pay the $15.00 NTD for an elevator ride, and set off to explore the city before our bus back to Keelung. What a beautiful ending to an incredible journey.

This one might be a little tough! It’s been sensory overload these last couple weeks. After only two rocky days at sea for recuperation from Nam, we unloaded in Hong Kong. It may be a separate country, but it proved to be a spectacular introduction to Chinese culture. Much like Singapore, this city has a futuristic appeal that I have yet to find in the States. We’re talking a full-blown technological mecca, and it’s beauty is right on par with Rio. We were ported in Kawloon, which is directly across the bay from Central, so the view of the skyline was top tier. With ferries, subways, taxis, cable cars, and buses, we took full advantage of the public transport. We only had one day, so Dan, Tom, and I hit it full force. We shot across town to Jumbo (a giant floating restaurant), browsed through a market in Stanley, and headed back to Central for lunch.

Ever play the game where you spin the globe, close your eyes, point, and land on a random country? Well, ordering food in Eastern Asia is a similar experience. If you want the local cuisine don’t expect English translations. All you can do is point at a dish and hope it’s good, which is kind of risky in a country where dog is considered a delicacy. With that said, I’ve been pretty lucky, at least to my knowledge. After lunch, we tracked down a famous teahouse to wash down our meals and even ran into a few Taiwanese women who gave us the lowdown on our next port. After a short subway ride, we arrived at the base of the Peak Tram, caught a ride to the top, and watched the sunset on the Sky Terrace above an eight-story shopping mall. That’s right, just like Singapore; Hong Kong is one giant commercialized metropolis. Rightly so, when the sun goes down, the city comes alive in a storm of twinkling city lights. We polished off the day in a pub district called Long Kwai Fong. Our timing was perfect. This was the weekend of The Hong Kong Sevens; a world famous international rugby tournament, and the matches had just wrapped up. The streets looked like a giant Halloween party, with rowdy fans from around the globe reping their teams.

The next morning came quick, and it was off the Beijing. We spent roughly three days in the capital city exploring the crown jewels of Chinese tourism. It was a bit chilly that far north, but nice to catch a glimpse of the winter we all missed out on. Beijing itself is the epitome of urban sprawl; six lane streets, no central planning, and endless seas of office buildings. At times, we were on the road for an hour and a half, and we were still in the city! The first night we hit “Food Street”; a stretch of kiosks that sells everything from snake-kabob, to scorpions and larva. Mmm delicious. The best part is, no one speaks English up north, so it’s impossible to really know what you’re eating. I was a bit less adventurous, but I did manage to gorge myself on delicious fried…everything, and even nibbled on some goat testicle.

The following day was chalked full of sightseeing excursions from The Forbidden City, to Tiananmen Square, and a Panda Exhibit. My pictures will do more justice to these marvels than I can, but believe me when I say. WOW. That night was one I’ll remember for the rest of my life; an overnight on The Greatest Wall of China. Our guide decked us out with gear, and sent us on a moonlit trek up the mountain to settle in for a night on the wall with complimentary food and drink. It was a surreal experience. Aside from the near fatal injury of a shipmate, and temperatures well below freezing, it was a picture perfect night. When morning came, we sacked up for a quick five-mile hike. Bear in mind, this wall stretches the distance from New York to LA, and the brilliant Chinese stuck it on top of the highest mountains and ridges for the clearest views of Mongolia. We were in complete solitude; miles from the nearest tourists.

That afternoon we buzzed back to Beijing for the wildest shopping experience I’ve ever had. These markets are six floor warehouses packed tight with 10x10ft vendor cubicles. They have young Chinese women working sales, and the first price quoted is generally ten times the going rate. They sold everything from North Face, to Ralph Lauren, and Ipods. I assume most products were knock-offs (or what they call “same same but different”), but it’s all about branding anyway right? I definitely made some enemies bargaining in this place. Next stop was the 2008 Olympic village, followed by a panda sanctuary, and an acrobat show. Quite the schedule, and without a dull moment.

Day three was no different. We kicked it off with a tea ceremony at an ancient bell tower in the Hutungs (Old Beijing), and after a rickshaw ride through the historic villages, we had a home cooked meal hosted by Jet Lee’s brother. Don’t worry, we checked his credentials, and sure enough, he’s legit. This guy even trained with Jackie Chan. We spent our last couple hours in Beijing at The Summer Palace, which is six times the size of The Forbidden City, set up on a hill overlooking a lake. Gorgeous. That night we were in transit to Xi’an via sleeper train in route to the Terracotta Warriors. These soft sleepers were pure luxury, and train travel is now my favorite mode of transport.

We woke up to the historic city of Xi’an, and made our way to the warriors. To preserve these 2200 year old artifacts, three giant climate controlled warehouses have been constructed around the pits. Since we have yet to perfect the technology that would preserve their color, only 2,000 of the estimate 10,000 soldiers have been uncovered, and as advertised, just like snowflakes, not a single one is the same. They were originally created in 210BC for the tomb of Emperor Quin, so that he could rule the underworld. Two millennia later, in 1974, the tomb was discovered by three farmers digging a well. Better than winning the lottery right? The sea of stone soldiers is truly a sight to behold. That afternoon we grabbed a big lunch, and hopped on tandem bicycles for an 8 mile bike ride on China’s 2nd Great Wall; The Xi’an Wall that surrounding the historic district. Short and sweet, it was back aboard the sleeper train for round two to Shanghai. The next day we took a quick tour of the city, hit the Bund (French quarter) and Peoples Square, found some wifi to get in touch with fam, and landed back at the boat. Shanghai is home to some of the most unique modern architecture I’ve ever seen. The whole city was developed in the last 20 years and it screams modernization.

China has an energy about it; A certain vibe that I haven’t experienced in any other part of their world. They’re on our level. They have the infrastructure, drive, and economic power to rival the States, but the whole Communism thing is really putting a damper on their potential. Everything is censored; no freedom of speech, press, assembly, family planning, housing, the list goes on. Even the Internet is regulated, and you can feel this. You can feel the tension and suppression. They hold back, bottle things up, and try to forget, but to someone who knows liberty, their pain is obvious. Even still, these people are strong, bold, disciplined, and most importantly they love their families, their people, and their country. They work for the aggregate, not the individual, and their unity is evident. To step on their toes would be a big mistake. With that said, everyone needs to experience this place. The oriental culture is still alive and eminent, but there are a couple things they have yet to get right; bathrooms and pollution. They’re still using squatters, no complementary toilet paper, and the sky is a consistent stark grey hue.

I apologize for the delayed entries guys, but school has kicked into high gear on this stretch. I’ve been busy trying to digest my experiences, create new ones, and keep up with these funny things called responsibilities. It’s not over yet! Next stop; Tiawan!

Ladies and gentleman, we have a winner. Viet Nam just took the cake for the best country. When I get back to the states and I’m having a bad day; say I bombed a test, or face planted in the middle of campus. All I’ll have to do is take a mental journey back to a little place called Viet Nam, and within seconds I’ll be grinning from ear to ear. Why Viet Nam?? Well, it’s a combination of things, but first and foremost it comes down to the people. They LOVE Americans. That’s right; even after slaughtering nearly 1/3 of their people for a questionable cause, 40 years later, they still love us. Many innocent Vietnamese were able to find refuge in the US during the war, and others married US soldiers so they know what we have to offer. Living in America is their Holy Grail.

So let’s get into it! I kicked off my travels without reservations and a couple California guys named Carl and Phil. Our port was in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. We were on a mission to make it up North to Ha Long Bay; one of the seven natural wonders. Strait off the ship we jumped on the back of three motorbike taxis and bee-lined to the airport. Driving in this country was even more intense than India. With no traffic laws, and seven side-by-side motorbikes per lane, all you can do is white knuckle the driver’s coat and hope for the best. Luckily we were able to score some reasonable round trip airfare, and with 2 hours to spare before boarding, we perused the surrounding streets. What we thought was a massage parlor turned out to be a family residence. Noticing our curiosity, the family invited us in for tea. The language barrier was tough at times, but an awkward introduction quickly turned into hospitality and laughter. This was the perfect sample of the star treatment American’s get in this country. They called their neighbors, took pictures of us, and introduced their children.

We made it to Ha Noi without a hitch, booked a bus-boat-bus junk-boat tour of the bay for the next morning, and settled down in a hostel. The following day we woke up with the sun, and took a 3 hour bus ride through rural Viet Nam to Ha Long City. The bay was incredible; over 2000 limestone islands jutting hundreds of meters out of emerald green water. This place looked surreal; strait out of Avatar! The tour highlights included one night on the bay, a cave visit, kayaking, climbing, cliff jumping, and karaoke! Our junk had a young crow; 2 Brits, an Aussie, 2 Frenchies, and 2 Germans. Needless to say it was quite the melding of cultures. And by the way, when they say “junk-boat”, they mean a wooden five star perfectly manicured luxury yacht with full time staff. Not too shabby.

That night we made it back to Ha Noi, checked out the Ha Noi Hilton (Where John McCain was held during the war), grabbed some street food, and made it back to the airport for our red-eye to Saigon. Wasting no time, I was picked up by Jack Tate promptly at 5:30am the next morning for a flight to Delat. Jack is a big donor at the College of Charleston business school, and after attending his seminar last semester, I was invited to visit his villa. The whole day was first class. I could talk… a lot, about this man and the experiences we had. But for blog sake, I’ll keep it brief. Delat is a resort mountain village at roughly 5,000 ft. Very few people know that any region at this elevation within 10 degrees of the equator is consistently 75 degrees year round because temperature decreases three degrees per 1000ft. elevation gain. The village was pristine; crisp air, tight streets, mountain backdrop, and of course, great people. We made our way to Jacks villa, which words cannot possibly describe. The Estate is made entirely of marble, with hidden rooms, gardens, bridges, a skywalk, farm/greenhouse, the list goes on. After touring the villa we grabbed lunch, explored the city markets, sat down for coffee, and capped the day with a gorgeous hike around a lake. Jack came back to Saigon with me to talk business over dinner and a few drinks. What a great experience.

The final day, I traveled a couple hours outside of the city to see the Chu Chi tunnels which were created by the Viet Kong during the war. If you’ve ever been to a nail salon before, you know these people are crafty, but this is on a whole other level. They mentally crushed US forces. These men may have been tiny averaging 5’3’’ 100lbs, but their tactics were brilliant. They had escape routes, decoy tunnels, smoke dissipation techniques. The whole scheme was foolproof. The entire army lived underground in over 80mi of tunnel for more than 8 years. Unbelievable. On our way back to the ship, we swung by a Kau Dai Temple to witness on of their musical worship rituals. This is a religion that has surfaced in the last century, which acknowledges and melds together five of the world’s most prevalent religions. Interesting right?

The trip is really starting to speed up! We only have 2 days at sea in between Asian countries, so bear with me. We had treacherous storms between Viet Nam and China, and it was tough to get much of anything done in the rough seas. My China update will be coming soon, so stay tuned! I hope all is well on the other side of the globe!

These people got it down. A city more advanced than America? That’s right. In many ways Singapore actually is better than the US. We’re talking in areas of cleanliness, education, architecture, and even GDP. Since it’s independence, it has grown to become the world’s wealthiest nation. After countries like Ghana and India, the contrast was shocking. Walking around Singapore is like stepping into the future. It felt like we were touring a map in Sim City. It’s just so clean and perfect with sharp angles and polished walls, it almost seems fake. I would literally eat dinner off the floor (not legally, but with no ill hygienic effect). As Americans, we think a $1000 fine for munching an apple on the subway is ridiculous, but at the end of the day it’s not about the money for them. They’re simply saying “Don’t eat on the subway”, and their methods work. Distribution of drugs is penalized by death, which is no wonder why drugs are virtually nonexistent. The negative connotations American’s have of this nation from media coverage are entirely false. Shame on the American student who disrespected their culture.

This was the first port that offered a state of the art gangway to walk directly off of the ship and into a port side shopping mall. One thing I forgot to mention about this place; about half of it is underground, and anything on ground level or below is a shopping mall. They’ve laced the subway stations and underground crosswalks with endless storefronts; everything from Gucci, to Starbucks, and Gap kids. We had about 10 hours to see the country, and I’d say we did great work. We decided to spring for the unlimited subway day pass, and definitely got our money’s worth. First stop was the Marina Sands. There is a hotel here that was unreal. As the most expensive hotel in the world and an architectural marvel, it sports three 58 story towers with a cruise ship sized infinity pool deck sprawled over the top. The entry level has several floors of luxury stores with Venice like canals. With a view of the Singaporean skyline, Belaggio fountains, and the biggest Farris wheel in the world, this place was lavish. We indulged in a full tour, and then caught subway to the Raffles hotel to sample the city’s signature Drink at it’s birth site; The Singapore Sling.

Next was Chinatown. Singapore is known for it extravagant global food culture, so naturally, we went big. Chili Crab is their claim to fame, and coming from a seafood skeptic, it lived up to the hype. My friend Scott had a friend studying abroad in Singapore from U Conn named Ricky. He met up with us after class and gave us the grand tour. Since China has such a huge influence here, Chinatown was a great prep for the real thing. We even got to see an authentic Chinese temple during service. Moving right along, we jumped a subway to Boat Quey, and explored the European themed waterfront district. Next in line was Little India, which by the way was not even close to the real thing… thank god. The true Indian feel wouldn’t quite mesh with Singapore’s standards, but it was refreshing to see a cleanly Hindu temple. We finished our tour off at Clarks Quey; an upscale commercial district along the river. By the end of our travels, we felt exhausted and accomplished for having conquered the island nation.

After only two days at sea catching up on my studies, we will enter the Mekong Delta tomorrow morning at sunrise, and we should be along side in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) by eleven. I plan to visit Ha Long Bay, Delat, and The Chu Chi Tunnels, so cross your fingers for me! Turns out, with all of the issues in Japan, we have been rerouted to Taiwan! It wasn’t my first choice of alternatives, but with the plume of radiation blowing North, South Korea was questionable. I hope all is well in the States! Tomorrow, it’s off to the land of the dong!

I’m still in shock from this place! Thankfully, SAS knows how heavy this country is and they’ve given us a reflection day to digest our experiences. This is one that needs some visual affirmation; so don’t forget to check out the photos on facebook. Going into detail on each place I visited would get lengthy, so I’ll briefly touch on what I saw and go a deeper into my reaction.

We ported In Chennai on the South East coast. Right off the bat I’m squeezed into a tuk-tuk. This thing is a fun-sized open-air tricycle jeep, and they’re everywhere down here. No more than three would fit comfortably, but India isn’t like the rest of the world, so we squeezed six guys in plus the driver. Navigating busy Indian streets takes coordination, impulse, and years of practice. The closest thing I can relate it to is those Fast and Furious movies where they’re weaving all over the road, dodging incoming traffic, and tempting fate with every juke. Driving requires intense concentration; no stop lights, curtsey waves, or taking turns, and no cell phones, texting, or waving to your neighbor. But this isn’t exclusive to the streets; Walking in India is an extreme sport. If you aren’t aggressive, you’ll get trampled. It’s funny though; If a cow steps into the road, traffic will stop on a dime. The cow is their holy mother, and its slaughter is punished severely.

That first day we witnessed the charming of a cobra, decked out head to toe in Indian Linins, visited a Hindu Temple and St. Thomas Basilica (One of only 3 basilicas in the world built on the resting site of an Apostle; Rome, Barcelona, and Chennai), and capped the day by scalping some tickets to catch the end of the 2011 Cricket World Cup between South Africa and England. I didn’t know much about the game, but we were lucky enough to land seats next to England’s national squash team. They were there to play in the World Cup of Squash starting the following Tuesday, and were nice enough to run us through the ins and outs of Cricket. I’ve actually acquired a taste for the game, and the last half hour was intense with England pulling out the win by 6 runs. The walk back to the ship from the stadium on the 2nd longest beach in the world was gorgeous. Unfortunately the ocean water in Chennai is to heavily pollute that swimming is unheard of and clothing on the beach is mandatory.

We got up bright (more dark) and early the next morning at 3:30 to catch a connecting flight to Varanasi. Surprisingly, Spice Jet pampered us with top shelf service and cuisine. That evening, we checked into our hotel, and hopped on some rickshaws to watch the performance of an ancient Hindu ritual on the bank of the holy Ganges River. If Chennai wasn’t crazy enough, Varanasi was on a whole new level. I’m talking classic Hollywood India; dirt roads, elephants, camels, shoulder to shoulder foot traffic, and poverty like I’ve never seen in my life. I had never felt energy like this in a city. Our skin gave us away as tourists, and if our bargaining skills weren’t up to par, we became quick targets for scamming street vendors. The ceremony was unlike anything I had ever seen. After paying the equivalent of $2.00 USD for a street corner deep tissue rub down, I lit a candle on a tray of flowers, said a prayer, and sent them out into the river. From afar, the river looked like a twinkling cityscape. There was dancing, prayer, bartering, and Hindu rituals taking place; all a foreign sight. We headed back to the hotel with the intention of a good nights rest, only to get invited to a four-year-old’s birthday party across the street. With music, dancing, free food and drink, we had a great time, and the upper caste was very welcoming.

The next morning was off to another early start. We headed back down to the Ganges to board a rowboat, and watch the sunrise. This was one of my most memorable moments. They conducted yoga breathing, prayer, and cremated bodies on the banks while a parade of boats tacked back and forth along the shore. Again, there’s an energy in the air there that fills you up and gives you a sense of what India is all about. That afternoon we visited Sarnath (Where Buddha preached his first sermon), a Shiva temple, and a genuine silk factory, before boarding a flight back to Delhi.

The poverty we saw along the way was beyond comprehension. Grandparents, mothers, children, handicapped, leapers, paraplegics, and the deformed were all begging for food with tears in their eyes. They were rail thin. A feeling of helplessness I’ve never known came across me every time. At first I rationed out some cereal I had in my pack, but they would fold it up in their shirts and keep begging. I gave a little girl some money. She put it in her shirt, and put her hand back out. We quickly found out that these beggars were working for someone else. They are battered, abused, mangled, and mutilated to get more money for their boss. We saw two brothers. The older punched his younger brother in the face and then asked for money. We didn’t pay, so he threw him on the ground, jumped on him, kicked him, and asked for money again. We didn’t pay. He elbowed him in the face, gave him a bloody nose, grabbed his head, and threatened to snap the neck….we finally paid. This is poverty on a whole new level. They would let their neighbor die in the street just to live another day. It is survival for them, and they will do anything to stay alive.

On a much lighter note, I’ll briefly point out that India and unique smells go hand in hand; If you don’t have a home you don’t have a bathroom, the sewage system is open air and runs along the street, curry is served for breakfast lunch and dinner, cows are their holy savior and roam the streets. You do the math. This place absolutely reeks! But it isn’t consistent. There’s a new whiff around every corner, and I was lucky enough to sample them all.

We made it safely back to Delhi, after a nice meal, and getting in touch with the fam, I managed to get 3 hours of sleep before our train ride to Agra. So worth it. The Taj Mahal blew my expectations out of the water, and the Red Agra Fort one upped it. Pictures speak 1000 words, so I’ll spare you a lengthy description. We checked out a few other monuments, mosques, and a marble factory before hopping back on the train to shut the night down back in New Delhi. The final morning we paid a visit to India Gate, an incredible Temple frequented by Ghandi, and the Presidents Palace, before boarding our flight back to Chennai.

I’ve left so much out, but to retain my readership, I’m keeping it belief. Just trust me when I say that a visit to India will change your life. The juxtaposition of majestic monuments amongst the most extreme poverty in the world is unforgettable. To anyone who expressed concern, I’m feeling the love, but we haven’t seen any more of the tragedies in Japan then you have. Selfishly, we were all upset today, to hear that Japan is no longer in out Itinerary, but there could be worse things right? My heart and prayer goes out to all the suffering. Instead we are looking into South Korea, Taiwan, or the Philippines, so I’ll keep you posted. We’ve been sailing now for 4 days through the Bay of Bengal, and tomorrow, Singapore will be sitting at our doorstep for the taking!

Bonjour! I’m just a couple hours shy of the Indian coast, and before I get mixed up in that madness, I wanted to update my dedicated followers on Mauritius. Where you ask? It starts with ‘M’ and rhymes with delicious, and it’s a small island North-West of Madagascar. The population is predominantly French speaking Hindus of Indian decadence (I didn’t get it either), which was a nice prep for the real thing. This place was absolutely gorgeous; crystal blue waters, jagged volcanic peaks, and coral reefs for days. The majority of the SAS crew had booked a catamaran booze cruise, but I really wanted to experience this place. It was the perfect opportunity for some solo travel, so I took advantage. Mauritious is world renowned for it’s perfect kiteboarding conditions; glassy waters, peeling waves, and consistent winds. Naturally, I devised a plan to head South down the East coast to a kite resort in Tamarin.

Solo travel is quite the enlightening experience. While others were stalled waiting on tours, I jumped ahead of the pack and took off on foot toward Port Louis. Navigating the city was a bit of a challenge with the ethnic contrast. White skin is a beacon of ignorance, and the locals love to take full advantage. I was hoping to save a couple bucks by using the bus, and after warding off a pack of cab drivers at the port gate, I managed to locate the inter city bus station. I was unsure of the route, so I befriended Ishmael, a middle-aged local, to help me track the right bus own. While waiting, I picked up a retro pair of “Google” flip-flops for my bro, and investigate the local trade. After 25 minutes and no avail, Ishmeal offered to drive me himself. We shot down the sugar cane coast through a rainstorm and several Shiva pilgrimages for the upcoming weekend of religious festivities. The locals had made elaborate flower floats to pay tribute to Shiva, the god of destruction.

30 minutes later we arrived in Tamarin to no wind and no waves. I ran across a couple SAS kids searching for some surf that gave up and headed to a waterfall. Frustrated but hopeful, I pressed on. Fifteen minutes further South was Le Mourne, where the top kiteboard brands are headquartered for R&D. Supposedly this place is legendary for a strong steady breeze. I wound up at a luxury Indian themes kite resort called Indian Palace. The wind was still in a lull, but they set me up with equipment anticipating a build. In the meantime, I chatted with the local riders, ordered a beer, and lounged by the infinity pool. Unfortunately, the wind never did cooperate, but the waves were breaking clean just past the coral reef. Out of pure sympathy from the staff, I got to try my hand at stand up paddle boarding, which is now my new favorite windless activity. It’s calming, effortless, and allows for an uninhibited perspective on marine life that you just can’t get from in the water.

4:00pm rolled around quick, and after Ishmeal picked up his family, he swung by the resort to grab me. Even though the day didn’t go exactly as planned, this whole experience is about trying new things right? Back on board, I was greeted by 300 sloppily intoxicated passengers. and our departure was delayed for an alcohol related hospital visit. Needless to say, this was the last time Semester at Sea will visit Mauritius.

On our six day Journey to India, captain pushed forward at full throttle through the “pirate zone” off the coast of Somalia. We took an emergency stop in Diego Garcia, a top-secret US military base, to let some passages off for medical attention. Apparently we were the first civilians to ever visit the island. So we’re now officially half way through the voyage and three quarters of the way through classes. Everyday I remind myself to cherish each moment, and with only 8 sea days in March, time won’t wait up. I’ll check back India soon!

Wow, Cape Town South Africa, what an incredible place! Unfortunately, after the six day trek from Ghana, rough seas and high winds postponed our arrival by a day and a half…and what a miserable day and a half that was. To conserve fuel, captain brought us down to a slow idle and threw the wheel hard left. We spun over 50 counter-clockwise circles throughout the course of the day with Table Mountain, the icon of Cape Town, tempting us from shore. Slow moving in rough water makes for a miserable experience at the mercy of the swells. Thankfully, after 36 hours, Mother Nature cooperated.

We ported around noon, and hit the ground running. Our berth was at the V&A Waterfront; a quaint area full of shops, restaurants, pubs, and markets. We scoured the city for scooter rentals (or what they call scooter “hire”), only to discover that everyone in Africa and their mother was in Cape Town that weekend for the U2 concert, and all of the scooters were spoken for. Instead we checked in at a backpackers hostel and decided to postpone the open road until the next day. Why the hostel you ask? There was no way anyone was getting back on the ship after yesterday’s misery. Instead, I set up shop with four guys in a four bedroom overlooking Long St.; Cape Town’s premier shopping and entertainment district. To cap the afternoon we headed to the Two Oceans Aquarium to check out the marine life from Cape Town’s two oceans; the Indian and the Atlantic.

Since scooters didn’t work out, and hiring a taxi for the day would break the bank, our next option was car rental. Now, according to Semester at Sea renting a car is strictly forbidden, or so their policy says for insurance purposes. Nonetheless, we took our chances. My buddy Dan had some experience on the left side of the road and volunteered to drive. The only issue was that he is under 21, so we weren’t able to register him as a driver. We had been picked up from downtown, filled out the paperwork, and just as they put the keys in my hand they said, “Only you will be able to drive the car.” Oh s**t right? Yea, but after four stalls, and a couple close calls, I actually pulled it off! The left handed stick shift threw me for a loop, but I had three solid copilots making sure I was on the right (left) side of the road, and directing me through traffic, thank god. It was definitely a team effort. At the end of the day, we had traveled roughly 300 km., and I’d have to say, It felt great to break out of my comfort zone a bit.

We started on the Indian coast with our first stop at Boulders Beach to mingle and swim with one of few African penguin colonies. Precious… Then we shot down to Cape Point, the southern most tip of Africa where the two oceans collide. We were advised to keep the doors locked to shun away the wild Baboons. Turns out this is no joke. The tourist behind us hopped out of his car to take some photos and got more than he bargained for. The baboons hopped right in, attacked, and got slammed in the door twice before taking off. The vegetation at this place was unreal. Cape Town exclusively hosts one of the six floral kingdoms of the world. We looped around and traced the Atlantic coast back North. This drive slid into my number one replacing the California 101. Gorgeous. We passed back through Harbor Town, and made our way up to Stellenbocsh, South African Wine Country

That night we landed in another spectacular hostel, grabbed a huge dinner, and rested up for an early morning wine tour. Out of the 100+ wineries in the area, we settled on JC La Roux, the leading sparking wine crafter. The tasting was top notch, and the beauty unprecedented. That afternoon we managed to return the car on time and in good order. With no time wasted, we headed over to Table Mountain for the ascent. Unfortunately the “Table Cloth” of clouds had covered the hiking route, and the trail was temporarily closed. By default we hopped on the cable car, and arrived on top of the world in a minute flat. Three hours of exploration later we retired to the ship for some much needed R&R.

Day four: You’re classic African Safari. It felt strait out of a movie. I woke up at 5:30 AM and drove 2 hours North to Aquila Private Game Reserve. Gringos from all over the world seek out South Africa for this lavish game park. We were met at reception with campaign and led to our table for a 5 star breakfast buffet. Mid-meal, two elephants casually sauntered across the sunrise. So Africa! During the 4 hour game drive we managed to see the “Big Five” and then some. It was the perfect cap to my African experience; or so I thought.

When I got back to this ship, my roommate Dan so graciously surprised me with a ticket for the 9:00am tour to Robben Island. For those unfamiliar, this is where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were held for 26 years during apartheid. In a sense, it’s African Alcatraz. The tour was heavy and inspiring; definitely worth the trip. One bizarre fact though; ex prisoners and ex guards now inhabit the island harmoniously. Peace on Earth.

With Africa in our wake, we’re now 4 days into the journey to Mauritius (A small island off the coast of Madagascar) The last few days have been rough. Mid-terms have now come and gone, and I have a laundry list of obligations to address before we hit India in 5 days. First things first; tomorrow I get to wake up to yet another foreign land full of adventure! As one of the top kitesurfing destinations in the world, my itinerary is a no-brainer. I want to give a shout out to my brothers, my parents, Gabe, close family, and my best friends back home. I miss and love you guys! Wish me steady winds and blue skies! Cheers!

First off, my apologies to any dedicated followers! After two exams and an unidentified illness, I’m finally getting around to relaying my adventures. I’ve definitely picked up on the ‘abroad’ part of this experience, but the ‘study’ is still in the works.

As always, let’s start back where we left off. The port of Takoradi raised some eyebrows at first. We were docked in a massive industrial shipyard with no sign of ‘city’ in either direction. Hats off to Semester at Sea for driving home the issue of child labor on coco plantations by landing a berth directly across from a serious coco exporting operation. We were greeted by an overly friendly group of guys the second we stepped foot off the ship. They welcomed us, asked our names, and where we were from. Nice right? Not when they have three bracelets with your name on them when you return and demand money. These were some of the best salesman I’ve seen yet… Aside from the 15 minute walk through a sea of shipping creates the rest was Africa at it’s finest; drum circles, exotic dancers, bright colors, sweltering sun, and interesting smells.

Since I only had one day in Takoradi, first order of business was the Circle Market at the city center. When I say city in African terms, you would be disappointed to think skyscrapers. It simply means more people, and closer ‘structures’, for lack of a better word. I don’t want to sound insensitive and say ‘shacks’, but when building materials are limited to plywood and sheet metal, reinforced walls are simply out of the question. Right, so we hop in a taxi, and two locals jump in right after us. After some initial confusion, turns out these guys had met some students on the September SAS voyage and wanted to go round two. They negotiated our cab fare, and gave us a behind the scenes tour of the grungiest market I’ve ever experienced. There’s the insensitivity issue again. Just for this post, I’m going to replace any controversial word with ‘cultural’ so use your imagination. The merchants either loved us or hated us. We were ‘Abony’ or ‘white men’, which for them generally means European or South African. Some gave us hugs, and others yelled in tribal languages. One woman even sent her knife flipping down the table at us. In America, we think Wal-Mart sells everything under the sun. Wrong: this ‘cultural’ market did though. Everything from livestock to matchbox cars, and the merchandise was spread all over the streets. You could watch a live goat get slaughtered, butchered, and then purchase it’s small intestine for 3 Citi. Goods were transported via balancing act on top of ladies heads. With no running water or plumbing, you can imagine how ‘cultural’ this place smelled. Nonetheless, it was an experience, and living proof that Americans live in a fairytale. For our tour guides, Daniel and Theo, America was heaven, and we were as close as they have ever been and may ever get. We picked up a soccer ball, and watch the sun go down while playing some Futbol with a few kids on African Beach. After packing, I turned in early to prep for my early morning.

4:30am came quick. We met Fred, our 20 year old your guide, and boarded some ‘cultural’ vans called Tro-Tros. The coastal African countryside isn’t much more than a vast expanse of side-by-side shacks. Villages boarder villages, and poverty it the norm. We were stopped over 10 times by the corrupt Ghanaian police force, which demands bribery for safe passage. After 3 hours, we made it to the Elmina Slave Dungeon. This place was eerie. Walking on those grounds and in the torture cells sent chills down my spine. The history is rich but dark. Without giving a lecture, I found it most interesting that it was actually the African who captured their fellow man and sold them to the colonizer.

After a quick lunch in Kumasi and seven hours on the road, we finally arrived at the village of Senasi. As the sun went down, and our white faces became more visible to the streets, we were instant celebrities. At every corner, locals crowded the bus and cheered for us to take their picture. Our welcoming in Senasi made me feel on top of the world. Hundreds of men and women applauded, yelled, played drums, danced, and the children clung to us like we were Mickey Mouse at Disney World. After asking the village chiefs for permission to stay, we were assigned host families, and retreated to our new homes for a solid night sleep.

To hold your attention, I’ll go over the itinerary in brief. Day 1 consisted of farming, a school visit, and a drumming/dance workshop. Day 2 we taught a lesson at the school, and performed a traditional African dance in front of the entire village. The food was top notch, and I’m a picky eater. Everything came right out of the ground that morning. It was predominantly beans, peppers, corn, bread, plantains, palm nuts, and various roots.

Their pure lifestyle came through in their genuine personalities. We could walk through the village alone, and everyone would wave and invite us for a meal. We were immediately their ‘best friends’, and after two days they ‘loved’ us. They collected our cell phone numbers and addresses in hopes that one day they will make it to the states. They want to write and stay in touch. One little boy named Ti has already called 14 times, and it breaks my heart to have to ignore it to avoid roaming charges.

They lived in houses the size of our closets, some on less than a dollar a day, but collectively, they were ten times happier than Americans. They had everything they needed and nothing they didn’t. Their time was spent with the people they love only working to live, not living to work. Everything western culture introduced, such as TV and Internet, only made them aware of what they didn’t have. It make’s me wonder how much good we did…. Showing up in our clean white t-shirts, using cell phones as flashlights, and wearing digital cameras around our necks. Everyone smiled and treated us like royalty, but now that were gone, they’re left wondering what life could be like, knowing that there are ‘better’ places they will never get to see. It’s hard not to sound selfish when they have no lights, and we’re traveling around the world for four months on a cruise ship.

Sorry for the lengthy post guys, but Ghana was quite the eye opener. We’re now four days into our voyage to Cape Town with only two more ahead of us! Thanks to all of you who are keeping up with my travels. You inspire me to take photos, record, and reflect on my experiences. There should be 150 more pictures going up from Ghana in the next couple days so keep your eyes peeled. I hope everyone had an amazing Valentines Day! Over and out!

Nine days later, and we’re 50 nautical miles off the coast of West Africa! Grueling journey? I’d say so, but the ocean was surprisingly calm. So calm I kept fantasizing about breaking out some skis and trailing the boat. Half the time I had to look out the window to make sure Captain Jeremy hadn’t shut the engines down.
We did experience a little chop at the delta of the Amazon, but more than anything, just acclimating to the ship is a taxing process. We lost five hours of sleep over nine days, and I have yet to change my schedule. By that I mean I’m now falling asleep around three, waking up in time for class, and taking 2-3 naps throughout the day. Between standing in line, eating, and lingering at the table after meals, I’d say four hours are reserved for getting my three squares. I’m sure you’re starting to see my dilemma here. It doesn’t add up. Where are my days going? How can I study when there aren’t enough hours? This ship functions like a retirement community, and I assure you I’m not the only one going through this. The subtle rocking is like being back in the womb, and it’s challenging for all of us to stay awake regardless of how many hours we got the night before. This is known and tolerated by professors, but I must say, it’s hard to take classes seriously when half the students have their heads hung.
I have managed to submit to somewhat of a routine, and with exams coming up after Ghana I’ve found my second home next to a picture window in the ‘library’. I want to take a moment to review Sea Olympics, which is a day for the eight Seas (divisions of each deck) to compete in outlandish games that determine the order in which we will exit the ship in San Diego. Each Sea is associated with a color (I’m in the Yellow Sea). Picture insanity; To grasp the level of spirit and rivalry, think high school homecoming times ten. Lucky me, the ‘Academic Success PA’ that no one knows what to do with, defaulted to Sea Olympics coordinator. All else aside, we had a wild and crazy time. I wish I could relay our final standing, but the honorable mentions stopped after third place. Bummer.
Tomorrow morning I will have the vibrant West African city of Takoradi to admire as I eat my omelets. Class is once again put on hold for five days, and it will be time for full emersion into Ghanaian culture. Tomorrow I plan to explore our port city, and the following morning I’ll travel to a remote village for a three-day two-night home-stay. In transit we will stop at a slave dungeon in Cape Coast where slaves were held before boarding ships to Brazil and the Americas. It should be interesting to see the other end of the Trans-Atlantic slave trade. Especially since many of the victims were unknowingly on their way to my 2nd hometown, Charleston SC, to be sold in the market just a couple blocks from my apartment. It was brought to my attention today that we have just completed the Middle Passage from Brazil to Africa just as the slaves did one hundred years ago, but in reverse. It puts a whole new angle on sea life. Ghana’s nickname, the ‘Gold Coast’ sounds fancy right? Not so much when it’s not alluding to sprawling yellow sand beaches, but rather the precious metal, which was exploited by British colonization. Neighboring coastlines dubbed the ‘Ivory Coast’ and the ‘Slave Coast’, might help to put this region’s haunting history into perspective. That’s enough of a history lesson. For those who were worried that we’ve lost our American roots, we’ll be streaming the Super Bowl via satellite! I’ll check back in a few days, so stay tuned! It’s Ghana be exciting!

Hoi from Brazil! In my last post I had just left Dominica and was on my way to the Amazon. Turns out I was a little too confident in my sea legs. The seas were twice as rough as the first few days, which was a rude awakening for those of us who had weaned off of the seasick medication. The morning after embarking I lost my stomach at Breakfast, and quickly threw the anti nausea patch back on. Half of the ship didn’t make it out of bed, and half of the half that made it to class were either sleeping of throwing up. Several teachers canceled class, and others powered through. During a Tai Chi routine in Stress Management one of the Life Long Learners (retired passengers) was thrown across the room! With my cabin at the front of the boat, everything from sleeping to showering was quite a challenge. When getting dressed one morning I had to lay down 3 times to cure the nausea. Thankfully after 2 days of rough seas and drowsiness, we made it to the glassy waters of the Amazon. For the next three days it hardly felt like the boat was moving, and I was able to get my daily routine back on track.
The mouth of the Amazon River is about 100 mi. wide, so it looked more like a murky ocean. It was nice to see the shore as we made our way further up. We saw how desolate the Amazon Rainforest is, and occasionally passed a village. The natives never see cruise ships passing by, so the little kids would line the bank and wave only to get broadsided by the wave from our wake. I saw 10 kids get knocked clear over! As a side note, the bugs here could be walked on a leash.
After three days on the river we finally ported in Manaus Brazil where the Rio Negro and the Amazon intersect. There is a pretty cool division of brown and black water for miles before the two rivers mix. My first day in Manaus I hit the ground running. I had a field trip with my Architecture class first thing, and we pretty much covered the whole city. I was surprised how “second world” the city was, and there was clearly a lot of poverty. The high points were a massive fish and vegetable market, the world cup stadium site, Favelas, and experiencing the division between old and new Brazil. The Brazilian government is attempting to get it’s people out of the slums called Favelas, and put them into government housing in an effort to lower climb rates. After cruising around the city for the rest of the afternoon, I geared up for a red eye flight to Rio De Janeiro.
Negotiating the airports in Portuguese was quite a challenge, but we managed to board our 12-hour connecting flight to Rio. With a little sleep aid, I was able to pass clear out for both flights, and even slept on the floor in the Brasilia airport for our layover. After loosing two hours, I woke up in beautiful Rio, and we quickly hopped in a taxi to hunt for a Hostel in Copacabana. We checked in to Mellow Yellow for 21 Real a night ( about $14), and believe me, we got what we paid for; torn rubber beds on the ground, no sheets, no pillows, and 12 to a room. It felt like jail, but drinks were free from 5-8 in the roof top bar, which helped us cope.
The first day we explored Copacabana, the beach, and the local cuisine. No one in our group spoke Portuguese, so finding anything was quite an operation. Ordering food was like rolling dice; you just hoped it was what you wanted. The city itself is absolutely gorgeous; probably in my top 3. The beaches and the people were top notch, as some might call it the South Beach of Brazil. That night we met up with a friend of a girl we were traveling with who had just moved to Rio and will study there for a year. Tyler showed us the ropes of navigating the city, and took us to a local street festival. The energy was high, and festivities were in full swing. During our stay we managed to take advantage of every form of public transportation from taxis, busses, and metros, to illegal Cambiana vans!
Day two was dedicated to Corcovado, or what I call “Big Jesus”. The statue sits on top of a mountain and reins over the city. After exploring a little shopping districts called Botofogo and crossing a highway on foot (Sorry Mom!), we boarded a tram that took us on a scenic ride up to what us gringos call Christ The Redeemer. The statue is absolutely amazing, and the view is just as impressive.
That night we headed to Ipanema to grab dinner. We ran into some locals who spoke great English and even lived in the states for a couple years. We were seated next to each other at dinner, and they ended up showing us around for the night. Our final day was more relaxed. We slept in, checked out of the hostel, and took the metro to Ipanema Beach for the day. After a few hours of prime beach time, we met back up with the locals from the night before to climb up on the rocks at the end of the beach and watch the sunset. Apparently Rio is the only place in the world that every evening, when the sun hits the horizon, all the spectators break out in applause. It was the perfect cap to an incredible trip. Immediately after, we snagged a cab to the airport to head back to the ship in Manaus.
After picking up a few last minute items in town this morning, we’re now on our way back down the Amazon. I’ll cherish these last couple days of stability before we hit the rough waters of the Atlantic. I’m a little nervous for the crossing to Africa, but I’m trying to stay optimistic. It’s great to be back in my bed with scheduled meals, and after 8 days, our next stop is Takoradi Ghana
I miss everyone back home, especially my family, friends, and Gabe. I apologize for not updating my blog more frequently. You can find pictures and maps of all my adventures on my facebook. Please comment and be in touch! jclucas@semesteratsea.net